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Upper Tama Lakes in Winter.

  • Writer: Shal Addis
    Shal Addis
  • Aug 21
  • 7 min read

Cold Nights, Clear Skies, and New Gear Tested


Inspiration is a funny thing. Sometimes it hits fast, like a wave crashing on rock. Other times it builds slowly, rising until it’s impossible to ignore. It can show up in the strangest places; hidden in the mundane, waiting for someone curious enough to notice.


For me, it arrives in different ways. A conversation with a friend. A line in a book. Even a quick scroll through Instagram. In this particular case, inspiration arrived via packing my bags and heading off for an overnight camp, down at Tongariro National Park.


The Tongariro National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It’s actually pretty special because it was the first place in the world to receive dual World Heritage status:


  • Cultural Significance (1993): Recognised for its deep spiritual and cultural importance to Ngāti Tūwharetoa, especially around the mountains Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro.

  • Natural Significance (1990): Recognised for its unique volcanic landscapes, alpine ecosystems, and biodiversity.


Camping in Tongariro National Park overlooking Ngauruhoe
Our camping spot overlooking the Upper Tama Lake. Mount Nguaruhoe looms in the background

For a couple of months the boys and myself have been trying to tee up a wee adventure. Cam had suggested the Upper Tama Lakes hike a few times, and we were also trying to rope Timo in. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to line up everyones schedules, but thankfully, I found a willing (and more attractive; sorry boys) participant in my partner Sarah. With the forecast showing a few good weather days, we bundled into the van and shot down to Taupo on Thursday night, ready for a Friday mission. We stayed at Reid’s Farm, a freedom camping spot near the famous Huka Falls. I’d stayed here previously during summer and struggled to find a park, but I was stoked to find an abundance of parking options when we rolled in at 7.00pm.




Upper Tama Lakes winter hike Tongariro

The plan was simple!"

The plan was simple: get a good dose of nature, create some cool memories AND, with Nepal looming on the horizon, it was a great chance to test out some recently acquired equipment.


With temps dropping to –4 or –5°C, I was keen to see how the Nemo Switchback and Tensor sleeping pad from Further Faster would perform, along with the tent from Orson Outdoors. I chose a three-season tent over the heavier four-season option because it was lighter, and with solid layers, thermal mats, and quality sleeping bags, I figured we’d be well covered. 




Camera Kit

The other thing I wanted to test was how my pack handled with a camera kit loaded in. Nepal with Dom is shaping up to be a big mission, and capturing quality content for our sponsors will be a big part of it (Hit me up if you wanna support!).


That brings me to the age-old question every travelling photographer faces: what kit do I bring? How do I travel light while still carrying the essentials to get the job done? And, more importantly, what’s the most efficient system for getting a shot quickly, whether handheld or locked off on a tripod, without the admin of unpacking and wasting time, or in Nepal’s case, exposing ourselves to more risk than necessary? 


For this mission I packed my Sony A7IV paired with the 24–70mm f/2.8, a reliable all-rounder that gives me the best balance of image quality and versatility on the trail. It’s my go-to lens for hiking and overnight missions because it covers everything from wide landscapes to tighter detail shots without having to swap glass in the cold. To keep things fast and efficient, I mounted the camera on a Peak Design Capture Clip attached to my pack strap. That setup let me switch seamlessly between hiking with the camera locked in, shooting handheld, or dropping it straight onto a tripod without fuss. For the tripod, I recently added the Ulanzi F38 travel tripod with fluid head, weighing in at approx. 1.25 kg, light enough for backcountry missions but stable enough for long exposures and panning video. The game-changer is its Peak Design–compatible quick release base plate, which makes moving the camera between clip and tripod almost instant.


I also packed my Laowa 10mm ultra wide-angle, mostly for fun, but it’s such a lightweight lens and gives an incredibly unique perspective. It’s perfect for talk-to-camera or vlogging shots because it captures both the subject and the environment in a way that really puts you in the scene.


As for drones, they’re not permitted in New Zealand National Parks without permits, so I left mine behind. For Nepal, though, I’m crossing my fingers that DJI drops the rumoured Mini 5 Pro, ideally under the 249 g threshold. That would be the dream setup for high-altitude expeditions. There’s no way I’m hauling the DJI Air 3S up there, so worst case I’ll try to score a second-hand DJI Mini 4 Pro before we go. Anyhow, enough boring camera chat for those of you who are here for the actual hike chat!


Panoramic view from Upper Tama Lakes saddle looking towards Ngauruhoe
A 6 Photo Panorama taken from the Upper Tama Lakes Saddle



Parking map at Whakapapa Village for the Tama Lakes Hike
A map in the Info Centre showing where overnight parking is allowed. Make sure you let them know and get a permit!

After a cheeky coffee at the Storehouse, Taupo, followed by another in Tūrangi, we arrived at Whakapapa Village at around 10.30am. After doing a little bit of online sleuthing, I learnt that we could park overnight at a small DOC site right next to the Skotel Alpine Resort just at the end Ngauruhoe Place.


Unfortunately it was full but it worked out for the best! We ended up parking on the main road, just before the Chateau. There’s a number of perpendicular parking spots that are located between the speed limit signs. There are 180 minute signs, however stop in at the info centre and let them know you’re looking to park long term. The legend working there took my name and plate number and issued me an overnight permit, letting me know it’s also much more secure there due to camera’s and it’s monitored by security.







The Ascent

The track itself is mellow and well marked: frost-covered tussock, volcanic plains, silence that makes your own footsteps sound too loud. We ticked off the landmarks: Taranaki Falls, then Lower Tama Lake, before the last little climb to the upper saddle. Besides the first section pictured below, the track is pretty exposed so make sure you bring sunscreen and a hat. To be completely honest, it’s not the most exciting or challenging hike but the views at the end are absolutely worth it! According to DOC it’s about 17. 6 km return. From our wanderings and camp spot, it was around 20km in total.



Once we arrived at the Upper Tama Lake, we set off looking for a good, somewhat sheltered, flat patch to drop the tent for the night, making sure we followed the 500m rule. It didn’t take long before we found the perfect campsite, practically begging us to camp there. A small bank offering just enough shelter from the wind, with a flat, tent-sized patch of ground that was so clean it didn’t even require clearing tussock. By 3.00pm we had set up camp and set off to take some pictures and explore.


Tent pitched overlooking Upper Tama Lake during winter camping trip
A nice spot to settle for the night. Million dollar views baby!


Camping at the Lakes

Sunset hit and the colours over Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe went insane. For a while, clouds threatened to ruin the show, but then they drifted off and it wasn’t too long before the Milky Way exploded overhead. Apologies no photos of this as I’m a rubbish astro photographer haha. Well I should say that there are photos, they're just rubbish!


Camping here feels surreal. Quiet. Stark. Vast. Knowing there's no one else around makes it even better."

The Morning

After an average sleep (typical), we woke to a crisp frost. It wasn’t too long before the sun came up and worked its magic though. As it slowly thawed us out, we took a few more pics, packed up camp and started the trek back. The gear itself went bloody good and nothing much to report other than it did it's job. The biggest issue was that my pants were a little too big which was pretty annoying having to constantly pull them up. I did know this prior, but it just slipped my mind while packing.


Although the walk out was easy, it was definitely made more challenging by the fact that we were fasted (had food on hand though) and we bloody pumped to make a bagel and coffee back at the van. Delayed gratification baby! That coffee warmed us good and tasted even better than usual!


Our original plan was to then drive up the Mountain and enjoy a day of snowboarding, however by the time we got there, they’d closed off the road due to it being too busy. Ah well, next time! Not bad about saving $160 or whatever it is on a lift pass if I'm honest.



Grivel Air Tech Evolution Ice Axe

Tips if You’re Keen

  • Layers & Weather: You’re entering an Alpine zone. Bring proper insulation.


  • Camping rules: DOC requires you to be at least 500 m off the track so pick a spot well clear.


  • Water: Even though it’s not too strenuous or long, don’t underestimate how much you’ll need. You’ll need it for your de-hy meals too.


  • Leave No Trace: Pack it all out. Seriously.


Parking hack: the DOC lot near Skotel fills fast. We scored an overnight permit from the visitor centre (free!) and parked in the perpendicular bays near the Chateau. Legend at the counter took my name and rego, easy as.




Reflections

Although the hike itself isn’t super eventful, it’s still a must-do and the views are well worth it. Plus, staying the night makes it a different adventure completely! Sometimes you just need to get away and get out of reception. Disconnect to reconnect, as they say on Instagram LOL. It was epic to bring Sarah along for her first camp down there too! These are the sort of memories that we can look back on and smile.




Next up, Nepal baby!




 
 
 

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