Adventure One. Mount Aspiring with Dominic Huxley
I feel the call to write again. Over a year and a half since my last reflection and I find myself returning to these funny little things made up of letters. I write when things feel overwhelming, when I can't make sense of my mind, when life starts 'lifing' often times in the wrong direction. I write to try and unscramble my thoughts into some semblance of order. My story today is about a recent adventure I had with my friend Dom; a professional adventurer, life-liver and all-round great human being.
January 7th, 2025.
I've just returned from spending a few days up North in my new home; a 2018 Ford Transit van. My latest ADHD fixation and my new pad on wheels for the foreseeable future. An adventure in itself but a story for another day.
About 6 months ago while helping Keepa @mewettmedia shoot some content for Movember, I met Dom Huxley @rum_doodle who was getting ready to climb Ama Dablam, a peak standing tall at 6813m (22,349 feet) in the heart of the Khumbu region in Nepal.
Ama Dablam is lovingly referred to as the “Mother’s Necklace” by the Sherpa people, a name rich in cultural meaning. This designation comes from the Sherpa language, where “Ama” means “mother,” and “Dablam” denotes a double-pendant worn by Sherpa women that contains images of deities. The mountain's breathtaking pyramid shape metaphorically represents a mother's protective embrace around her child. This cultural story infuses the mountain with a distinctive and profound identity, elevating it from a simple geological feature to a cherished symbol within the Sherpa cultural heritage.
I'd kept in touch with Dom with the odd text exchange since our Movember shoot, but comms with the guy is a challenge since he’s always exploring and generally out of mobile service. I was feeling like I needed to shake life up a little and perhaps start the year with a bang so I reached out to see if he had any adventures planned. As the definition of a frother, I figured he may have something coming up in a couple of months that we could plan and schedule in. No less than 2 hours later, I receive a text from him stating that in two days time, there was going to be a 5-6 day weather window in which he was planning to climb Mount Aspiring in the Southern Alps and that I should consider joining.
Often called the 'Matterhorn of the South,' Mount Aspiring / Tititea, is the highest peak outside of Mount Cook National Park and is a classic NZ mountain. As Dom would remind me a few times, 'Bro this is a real mountain!' My initial internal response to Dom's invitation was no. My mind instantly flashed to expensive airfares, having to purchase more kit and possible accommodation expenses. Basically financial concerns; something within my psyche that I've always had. By nature and probably by conditioning, I generally prioritise stability which often means new experiences are collateral damage. Instantly realising I was repeating a pattern, I caught myself, texted Dom and told him 'Hell yeah!' I told the universe that I want adventure, and I'll be damned if I was about to continue ignoring the opportunities given.
Isn't is funny how so often we want something, but when it slaps us in the face, we make excuses and jump to the negative? As I've gotten older, a big goal for me is to simply live more, see more, do more, say yes more, be uncomfortable more. I want to collect stories and photos for my kids and grandkids. I want to be known as someone who just did stuff. Cool stuff, scary stuff, random stuff. And so it starts by saying yes, and figuring the rest out as you go.
I want to collect stories and photos for my kids and grandkids"
Later that evening we jump on a phone call and Dom goes into great detail about the hike, proposing various routes and throwing around all sorts of jargon that went completely over my head. Mountaineering and climbing terminology, landmarks named after a bunch of different people and weather patterns made up the conversation. I just agreed and was glad at least one of us knew what we were doing!
Two days later, I drove to Auckland and caught a flight to Queenstown. Dom picked me up and after a quick coffee, we hit the road to Wānaka, where we'd get supplies and take a 40 minute drive to Aspiring National Park and the start of the hike.
The hike sets out from Raspberry Flats carpark. We sort our packs and set out on what would become my favourite hike to date. Winding though the Matukituki Valley, we cover ground fairly fast on our way to our first checkpoint; Mount Aspiring Hut. The terrain is essentially a pretty chill 4wd track with barely any elevation. It's late in the afternoon and the valley holds a lot of heat. We find respite at each river crossing where I excitedly fill my Salomon soft flasks. Side note, I end up losing both! Rookie error and not the first time Dom had to save me on the trip. A couple of hours later, we arrive at a very full Aspiring Hut. Kids are running around everywhere and we get bombarded by sandflies. Dom offers me the choice of camping out here or continuing on to Scott's Bivvy, a small cave about 3 hours further up. I decide to punch onwards and little did I know, I passed Dom's first test. Little does he know though that I just wanted to sleep in a cave!
We arrive at the bivvy, marked by a can (a pile of rocks used by those in the back country to show the path) at a round 8.30 pm. After a quick dinner, it's time for an early night. Miraculously, someone had left a candle in the bivvy. What a legend. I soon learned that it's mountain etiquette to leave little bits of supplies here and there for those who follow. You never know if someone is underprepared and it's a great way to spread some stoke toward fellow adventurers.
After an incredibly average sleep, I awoke to a Kea rummaging around in our belongings. These little guys are incredibly cheeky and are not shy in the slightest. After a quick coffee, breakfast and Kea photoshoot, we were back on the move. From Scott's Bivvy, we would be traversing further up the Matukituki. First to the 'slabs' then to Bevan Col, before finally walking across the Bonar Glacier, where we'd set up camp at Colin Todd Hutt.
I'll be here all day if I go into too much detail, but overall Day 2 was epic. From the ever changing terrain as we made our way higher, to wearing crampons for the very first time. We arrived at the hut excited to take off our boots and get stuck into some food.
One thing I love about staying in huts and just the outdoor world in general, is the people you meet. It's fair to say, most people who are out in the back country are generally pretty cool; they seek adventure, new experiences and discomfort. As they say, birds of a feather, flock together. On this particular occasion, we met a Finnish guy called Vallu (I think lol) who had just ridden from Helsinki to Singapore. 245 days bike-packing, covering 15,000 kilometres and 21 countries. It's really true that some people exist while others live. If you'd like to check the documentary out you can find it below.
January 9th, 2025. 2.00am
After another rough sleep, I wake up to yet another group of climbers gearing up to head out. My earplugs have failed me again, and I lie there regretting not spending the extra cash on a decent pair. We’ve still got two hours until our agreed wake-up time, so I toss and turn, willing sleep to return. No chance.
By the time 4:00 AM finally rolls around, I’m up, eagerly pressing a coffee through the Aeropress and getting my gear sorted. The caffeine kicks in, and next on the list—a bathroom break. Normally, I wouldn’t bother mentioning this, but on this trip, neither Dom nor I had the foresight to pack toilet paper. Our saving grace? A few stray baby wipes from the glovebox of his old Subaru, courtesy of his fiancée, Sylvia. Thank God. But this was day three, and we were down to the last two wipes. Not ideal.
In a stroke of desperate resourcefulness, I also find an old dish cloth in the hut—just in case. Dom, ever the seasoned mountaineer, reckons one wipe is plenty and skips the backup. Bold move. But one that proves to me that there are levels to this game!
I carefully bandage up the blisters that started forming from yesterday’s grind, then ease my feet into my boots and lace up. They’re still wet from the glacier crossing, and it doesn’t take long before that cold, damp feeling starts creeping through my socks. Side note, my feet got pretty ripped up and I wasn't able to wear running shoes for a week after but a worthy trade.
Gear check. Done
Ice axe. Yup
Crampons. Yerp
Head torch. On.
We set off in the dark, no sound except for the snow crunching beneath us and our breath. Dom informs me that last night the temp fell enough for the snow to refreeze. He explains that the best snow conditions for alpine climbing is firm, consolidated snow that actually holds an ice axe and doesn’t have you postholing up to your knees with every step. A solid overnight freeze is the dream—makes for stable footing and easier travel, which is why those brutal early starts are worth it.
Fresh powder might look good in photos, but in reality, it’s a slog and ramps up avalanche risk. Wet, slushy and sugary snow is even worse—sketchy footing, soaked boots, and it vastly ramps up energy expenditure and fatigue. For technical routes, firmer névé is the sweet spot, giving crampons and tools something to bite into. At the end of the day, picking the right conditions can mean the difference between a smooth ascent and an absolute sufferfest. Timing is everything.
As we slowly ascend, the black dawn sky fades into deep blues and purples, shifting and swirling before warm yellows and fiery reds begin to spill over the peaks of Aspiring National Park, lighting up the landscape in a way that makes every step worth it.
There are multiple routes to the summit of Aspiring but depending on climbing ability and where you are in the season, some are more suitable than others. For example, "The Ramp," the lower part of the North West ridge, is prone to avalanche in late summer and it's been the scene of several fatalities over the years. We (Dom) decided to attack the climb via "Kangaroo / Qantas Patch" which can be the fastest route in good conditions. Named Qantas Patch after seemingly looking like the Qantas logo, it was too abstract for me to see.
Climb, rest, climb, rest. On a big summit day, fuelling and hydrating properly isn’t just important—it’s essential. You’re asking a lot from your body, and on top of that, you need to stay mentally sharp. Even at lower altitudes, fatigue can creep in fast if you’re not keeping on top of it. I can only imagine what it’s like tackling those monster peaks in the Himalayas, where altitude and brutal weather take the suffering to a whole new level.
We reach the summit in approximately five hours and celebrate with another Em's Power Cookie (surely sponsor us Emma?). We pull out the camera and fire off a few shots and take in the staggering beauty surrounding us. I can see why this sport is addictive. Discomfort, challenge, adventure, beauty, connection and presence can all be found in abundance. For the first time in a long while, I felt truly connected. Three days ago, I had left all cell service and the comfort of every day life and traded it for an experience I'll never forget.
The journey down was an ordeal in itself but after nearly sliding off a rock face, we made it back to Colin Todd Hut in good spirits. Perhaps one of our favourite moments was later that afternoon when we were relaxing. A lone figure appears, slowly making his way across the Bonar Glacier. An hour or so later, the figure appears and enters the hut. A boyish looking man arrives wearing a bike helmet and proceeds to pull out a 6-pack of beer and a New World cheese and bacon pull-a-part loaf. Shit, maybe we overcomplicated things with our electrolytes and fancy power bars.
Thank you Dom for your invitation, wisdom and friendship. The simple act of saying yes has opened a whole new level of growth and excitement—excitement for more adventures, more stories, and the endless chase for whatever comes next.
As Chris McCandless (Into the Wild) wrote in his final letter to Ron Franz;
"I’d like to repeat the advice I gave you before, in that I think you really should make a radical change in your lifestyle and begin to boldly do things which you may previously never have thought of doing or been to hesitant to attempt. So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one piece of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man’s living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.
So wherever you are reading this, get out there and take yourself on an adventure. And do it soon.
We're already working on some cool new missions. Stay tuned!
Comments